BONDING BUNNIES 
BONDING BUNNIES CAN TAKE A LOT OF TIME AND PATIENCE, AFTER SUCCESSFULLY BONDING MANY OF MY OWN RABBITS, BUNNIES BARN ARE PLEASED TO BE ABLE TO OFFER THIS SERVICE. NORMAL BOARDING RATES APPLY.
BEFORE ATTEMPTING AN INTRODUCTION, THE RABBITS SHOULD BE NEUTERED AND/OR SPAYED. If bonding a male and female and the female has not been spayed, you should wait at least four weeks after the neutering of the buck before starting any bonding to ensure full recovery as well as the fact that a recently neutered buck may possibly still be fertile for weeks after the operation. This is information your veterinary surgeon can advise you on.
Bonding rabbits is not an easy task, people think it is just a case of bringing the new rabbit home to the existing rabbit and everything will be fine. More often than not these hasty introductions do not work and will result in the rabbits causing harm to each other or chasing each other around.
Rabbits are very territorial so when bonding rabbits, it is better to use a neutral space for the introduction. Neutral spaces might be a room that the bunnies have not been in before, maybe a garage, a friends home, even a bath!!
When you are going to collect your new rabbit, if possible take your existing rabbit with you so they can share the car ride, this can often start the bonding process.
Work with the rabbits for at least twenty minutes a day to start with and do not leave the rabbits unattended, you need to stay with them in case of fighting. If through the bonding process the rabbits do fight, they do need to be seperated when you are not working with them.
It is best to start the rabbits off in different situations such as a car ride or a neutral space and gradually move the situations to a more normal surrounding such as the garden or a run.
POSSIBLE SITUATIONS AFTER INTRODUCTIONS - If love at first sight occurs, then try them in the space they are going to be living in, if it is still ok, then they are fine and you have nothing else to do.
If the rabbits seem a bit hesitant towards each other, just keep an eye on them when they are together and seperate them when you are not around, this will avoid any fighting and eventually they will hopefully bond.
Another scenario is, if the male mounts the female and the female does not resist, this is a positive sign meaning the relationship will go well. If the female does put up a fight and becomes aggressive towards him, then you must prepare yourself for a lengthier introduction period.
If one rabbit is chasing and the other is running, make sure the running rabbit doesnt fight back and neither of them get hurt. If neither of these things occur, then just sit and watch and wait! If one does show signs of aggression, then seperate them and once again you must prepare yourself for a lengthier introduction period.
When two rabbits fight then you must prepare for a full introduction period and the possibility that they may not bond at all!!
POSSIBLE TYPES OF INTRODUCTION
BOY/GIRL - Probably one of the easiest introductions and quite often, the pair will fall in love straight away.
GIRL/GIRL - Quite easy but sometimes there will be fighting.
BOY/BOY - Sometimes there will be fighting but it is not totally impossible to bond boys, having both the bucks neutered will hopefully make the process easier.
TWO BABIES - Very easy to bond.
THREE OR MORE RABBITS - This will depend on age, sex, personalities and whether two of the rabbits are already bonded.
BABY/ADULT - Sometimes difficult but will go well if adult is tolerant.
If you are bringing home a rabbit to a rabbit which already lives with you, it is almost always easier to bring home a girl to a boy rather than the other way around. It is always easier to bring the rabbits home at the same time, usually the strange environment is enough to bond them